35mm surf
Our last resort, was our best resort. Pat Curren.
Have you ever played the game #RoseAndThorn? Every weekend after a #camping/ #surftrip we all say ''rose and thorn'' like a hundred times, then one at a time we share our shittiest moment of the trip and the best one. So, I'll got first! My Thorn of the trip was leaving the beach just as the waves were getting jumbo and clean. My Rose of the trip was super gluing a loonie (Candadian $1 coin) to the floor of the ferry and watching people fail to pick it up.
Onshore, I meet Gordie's wife, kids and grandchildren. He see’s his family off and comes to meet Logan, and the boys. He joins us for a beer and fills us in on the history of generations, the land, and the other possibilities of waves. We exchange emails so Gordie can hold onto some photos from the day. He gives me his home address, offering us the cheapest snow crab we’ll ever find. Then he points behind him “Just drive up the hillside there and I’ll take you boys fishing next time you’re in town.” On the way home we decided to name the wave after him.