White Flag.

Between the wind and lack of supplies, our tarp systems can get pretty wild on these trips. A couple great friends taking shelter from the rain. 

On the drive to the beach we laughed about the size of our campfire we would have since we all had axes and a chainsaw. Rene bucked the driftwood while Will and I split the chunks and we all high fived over the smell of fresh cut cedar. It was a late rainy evening so we needed the water proof red cedar and we only had yellow. 45 minutes of fire building techniques and we still didn't have anything hot. So I poured some gas on the tiny flame to speed things up but the fire crawled up the fumes into the jerry can and I threw the blaze. With no threat of an explosion, I hung my head at the melodramatic scene of red plastic melting and laughed. That's when Will placed the logs around the flame and built the second largest fire ever.

Roberto & Juan | 35mm film

Bedridden

We were sick as fuck in a hotel we paid three bucks a night for. With bug infested bamboo walls, wet concrete floors, a sheet metal roof, no hot water, no shower curtain, no mirror, no toilet seat, and not enough toilette paper to wipe our asses and puke off the floor. The fourth time I puked my teeth and face went numb, then my face and hands started to contort and paralyze. I started hyperventilating and all my muscles started seizing up because I was so dehydrated. I then laid in my bed fidgeting, having a panic attack while two guys messaged my body and talked some nonsense about how I wasn't going to die. I was going crazy.

Self Portait: Jesus Fish

At the time I was living in a trailer, at a campground, in Tofino, in 2010. The night before this was taken, I got naked in the parking lot while putting my wetsuit on.  I did it in front of a carload of girls who were clearly spying on the boys and I. Everyone got a good crack out of it. Then they sped off in there civics. When we came back from the surf I noticed they'd left a note on my car with their number on it. I called them, or probably got someone else to, and invited them to my place for a campfire. They came. Later that night we'd had a few too many pops, and I thought that'd be a good time to win a girl over.  So I grabbed a wiener roasting stick and bent the two prongs across each and made a Jesus Fish symbol. I had the girls pin me down on the ground. One on each arm, and one on each leg. I had my pants at me knees. Then I waited for my pal Bob to pull the metal prongs out of the yellow coals.

Then he branded my ass.

Then the girls went home.

Then I went to the doctor.

Then I couldn't surf for two weeks...